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Resolved Question: ideas on cost to repair motorcycle... '82 xj 550 yamaha 4 cyl.?

Just wondering if i am going to have to sell everything I own to get this bike running reliably... Basic, It has 4 carbs and seems to need a carb clean and balancing. With a full tune job (carbs, floats, valves, etc) minus plugs and wires, how much would i be in for? More details... I bought the bike for $900. It ran and rode just fine when I first checked it out.Like a week and a half later I went to pick it up. Had a hell of a time starting it. At first it wouldn't stay running. Then it ran but at insanely high rpms. When throttled the rpms would hang (not drop to idle position) which, of course, made shifting gears a bad experience for me. Rpms would drop only after a quick but wide open throttle rev. Finally the bike stalled on me and I couldn't get it started again. The smell of gasoline told me it was definately flooded as it was when I had initially had the trouble trying to start it. Anyway, pushed it 2 miles down the road to a shop and they said its definitely going to be a carb job. Said they'd get it starting and running right for me. Told the guy, "if it is something you'd trust not to break down on you mid trip, I'll be a satisfied customer". It is a 1982 Yamaha XJ 550 with only 8970 actual miles on it. The original owner had tipped it and hurt himself so he stored it for like 7 years with little maintenance and no riding. The second and last owner before me rode it but seldomly. But they did store and maintain it properly.And please, people... don't give me frivolous answers. If you don't know, don't answer. This is definitely in response to the NON-answer I just got... someones opinion on the amount of passion I have for a bike I obviously haven't been able to experience does very little for me. more

Voting Question: My 1986 Kawasaki ZX600 ninja appears to have an ignition issue?

I have a 1986 ZX600 Ninja. Two of the cylinders intermittently fire. Twice the bike temporarily stranded me. The first time I was riding down the road and the ignition just quit. I pulled off the road and tried starting it 10 times with no luck. I let the bike sit for 10 minutes and tried starting it again and it lit and I was able to drive 8 miles home with no problem. The other time I got temporarily stranded was when I road the bike for 25 minutes and parked it and did some shopping at the men’s mall. I came out a 1/2 hour later and the bike wouldn’t start. So I started pushing the bike to the nearest Kawasaki dealer and after 15 minutes of pushing I tried to start it, and it started right up. And again I was able to drive the bike 25 miles home with no problem. Oh, one other time it wouldn’t start is when I took it to a used motorcycle dealer to get the carbs cleaned. Two days later when the carb cleaning was done, I went to pick it up, and it wouldn't start. I told the guy at this used cycle dealer that the bike wouldn’t start and he said he'd have the mechanic look at it the next day. I went to pick it up the next day and it started right up. There were about 5 other instances when I wanted to take the bike for a ride and it wouldn’t even start in my garage. Therefore, the bike didn't even have a chance to stand me on those days. I don't remember which two cylinder don't fire, but they are the two that the right (as you are sitting on the bike) coil gives spark to. I don't think it's the coil because one of the times when the bike wouldn’t start in my garage I took one of the coils (which looks the same as the Ninja coil) off my 1985 Kawasaki LTD1100 Measured the ohms in the LTD coil and compared it to Ninja coil and they were the same. I know the Ninja coil ohms were ok because they matched the ohms specified in the Clymer shop manual. I installed the LTD coil and the bike still wouldn’t start. I also did a visual inspection on the stator and rotor. Visually they looked OK, although I didn’t have the special tool to take off the rotor so I didn’t get a detailed look at the stator. And what the heck is an igniter box. Is this a fancy name for a glorified CDI box? The manual mentioned this igniter box but it said to take bike to shop if the igniter box is problem. Isn't this why we buy shop manuals?, so we don't have to take our bikes to the shop at rate of $200.00 an hour. I don't think this is a fuel supply problem because the first time this happened I played with the choke and if I had the throttle in just the right spot, the bike started but ran idled poorly and sounded like a diesel engine. I ran it at idle for 2 minutes and just cracked the throttle and the bike died. I then felt the four exhaust pipes and the two that the right coil gives spark to were cold the other two were hot. No wonder it sounded like a diesel engine, only two cylinders were firing. Anyway, if anyone has a clue to what might be wrong with my Ninja or have even heard of this problem with Ninjas, please give me your input Thanks, KP more

Resolved Question: Motorcycle won't start after a year, what should I do?

I haven't started my bike for a year at least, maybe 18 months. I live in Southern California so there is no extreme weather or anything. It has sat covered under a bike cover the entire time, in an underground parking garage (not exposed to rain/etc) but it is not heated so it does get cold (40F). I let this happen once before for 6 months, so I bought a new battery and started it up within a few minutes. Tons of black smoke and gunk were ejecting from the bike of course, but eventually it would idle fine. So, fast forward a year+, I haven't started it at all and I just tried to go start it but it wouldn't turn over. The battery is dead, so I hooked it up to my BMW (not powered on of course) and connected the terminals. The bike lights and headlight powered up just great, but after 2-3 minutes of trying to get it to turn over it wouldn't. The starter engages fine, but not once did it give any sign of turning over or startup. It has about 1/2 tank of fuel (not good, I know). I imagine at this point it could be the battery or the carbs are gummed up tight and are causing the problem. One other odd thing I noticed is the choke is frozen tight, I couldn't adjust it at all (it is stuck at off) which I have never seen before. I tried throttling on a few times to get some gas in the lines, but still after 5 minutes no go on starting it. I'm thinking at this point I may have to take it to a shop to have it cleaned and flushed out, new spark plugs, oil, etc, but would rather not spend hundreds of dollars considering I don't ride it much (obviously). Is there anything else I should try? Hard part is I don't have any garage or tools to work on anything, so I fear I am stuck having to have someone else work on it.. Just for reference it is a 2001 Ninja 600cc.Yes, I guess I mean the bike will turn over and engage the starter, but it won't fire or even attempt to. more

Resolved Question: How much should this motorcycle repair cost?

My motorcycle broke down on the way home tonight - the throttle cable snapped. The mechanic came to pick up the bike at 5pm, to take it back to the shop (10 mile round trip) and is now going to replace the throttle cable and also have a look to see why the bike is having troubles cold starting (electric start button, no manual choke). I am in the UK. How much do you reckon this should cost me? Kathy.P.S. The bike is a GZ125 Suzuki Marauder 2002 model. more

Resolved Question: Why would motorcycle rev to 4,500 rpm on its own?

1982 Yamaha Virago 750 with 15k miles. Bought used, ran well. Sent carbs to be cleaned by highly reputable shop with ultrasonic. Reinstalled with idle mixture pilot screws 2 turns out, unsynched carbs. Plug readings look good. Rode for 30 minutes great, then it died. When restarted, it revved to 4,500 rpm on its own, with no throttle. No, the throttle nor clutch aren't stuck (cables or otherwise). Took off carbs and looked close - looks good. Reinstalled with Permatex semi-hardening gasket sealant around carb intake holders for nice seal. No air leaks around manifold (checked by spraying starter fluid around manifolds while bike was running). No vacuum leaks (removed tubes and sucked 'em with a finger over the other end). Fuel bowl levels are good so it's getting the right amount of gas. New gas, new battery, new oil at right level. Still getting the same problem - revs really high all on its own. Maybe CV carbs have rip in diaphragm? Not weather related - 58 degrees outoops by "clutch" isn't stuck, i meant "choke". duh.Hello all... Thanks for the great tips. Here's my plan of attack, compiled from your ideas: 1) double-check to make sure I can't use my finger to push throttle part on carbs down a little further (indicating that throttle plates are sticking) 2) play with sync adjustment screw 3) spray wd-40 on parts near intake to search closer for air leak 4)pull one plug wire when it's reving hog wild and see what happens (to isolate which carb is leaking air) 5) check for vacuum operated fuel petcock diaphragm leaks (this seems a likely possibility) 6) take off carbs again and make sure all the throttle plates are tight to their shafts, and centered properly so they don't get stuck I think I've eliminated all the other possibilities, but there were some good suggestions, so thanks for all the help. I'll report back when I try these things out. more

Resolved Question: what is the best way to get my motorcycle carbs clean ??

My yamaha r6 runs a bit better after I sprayed the carbs on it but still runs crappy. I know i need to take the carbs apart but dont know how too really but i've been using seafoam and it works better now. The bike is getting better but anyone recommend something else other than seafoam(B-12 maybe?). My friend says the carb cleaner works best when u take it on the highway and open the throttle...anyone try that? Any advice on fixing it would be great, i dont have 200 t0 spend at the bike shop. more

Resolved Question: Any motorcycle repairman in B-more that makes house calls. Throttle of 06' Suzuki GSXR 600 keeps sticking.

Live in Baltimore City, nearMorgan State University. Not comfortable with riding it to repair shop, due to idle being high, and throttle sticking. Would like to have it done by this evening, no later than this weekend. Will pay for house visit, and labor. Leave info at Hershiibar@yahoo.com. Thanks. more

Resolved Question: Honda Motorcycle, CB900C needs expert advice?

The Patient: 1980 Honda CB 900 C, stock except for Jardine 4 into 2 headers, being restored after 3 years abandoned in garage. 30,000 miles total. Condition and Treatment so far: Carbs replaced with overhauled unit by reliable shop, and synced to bike. (Original carbs were cleaned, but still popped as noted below; were never tested at high rpm.) Jets stock at 105, running in Houston Texas at sea level and 80 degrees F. Compression all excellent. Valve clearances all within specified tolerances. New plugs D9EA (recommended). Plug wires checked for 100% continuity. New battery: Alternator output 12 amps at 14.5volts, battery voltage at 12, coil voltage at 11.2, Pulsar gap to .016, static time checked Ok. Waiting on new timing light for dynamic timing. (Note: Pulsar was gapped with metalic gauge, although not magnetic.) She runs fine except: Problems: #1 When no accelerating (ie. loafing along, not much load on engine or backing down) get popping on right side Jardine, some times a lot of popping. Not full backfire, but a lot of popping. #2- Main problem: On opening her up, whether off the line, or on the highway, at 7500 rpm, power just quits. Will not go above 8000. Can sneak up on 8000 at less than full open throttle, but then same problem and will not go above 8200. Pulling on some choke makes no difference. Ran at 6500 for 2 minutes -- lots of popping on right side-- shut down and pulled 1 and 4 plugs immediately. Very light beige color, with a touch of pink(?). Absolutely no oil or soot or black. Possibly too lean due to Jardine headers??? Would that cause these symptoms? Diagnosis?THANK YOU ALL VERY MUCH FOR YOUR ANSWERS. It will take me several weeks to apply them. more